Two things about this pattern – 1) it’s one of the most comfortable garments I now own. I’m wearing it as I write this because I don’t ever want to take it off, ha & 2) the pattern illustrator took liberties with those shorts, eish! Spilling all the details below! (If you’re not into the sewing aspect and just want to see it worn, you can skip right to the bottom to see the photo shoot.)
Some details about materials – the fabric is a modern cotton, “bursting stars” by Joanns, though I’m calling this my “Firecracker” set. This fabric was actually my first ever impulse buy (for fabric) & I loved it to pieces when I found it, then got it home an just couldn’t match it with a project. It’s so busy I knew it would be hard to pull off with something like a dress and it needed to be featured in smaller pieces. I actually used it as a working mock up here since I had a hunch this set would come together easily (kind of right), and I had enough of it. Lining fabric is a navy blue cotton I had in my stash from when I made my 1934 hats (post coming soon).
Buttons are true vintage 1940s pressed glass in a lilac color that I’m obsessed with. The zipper is metal from the 1950s-ish. Belt made with a self fabric belt kit from Mood (because no sewing store withing driving distance from me carries them??). Also, I get no kick backs from these companies, I’m just sharing what I used. Also – this entire set features hand finished details as per the pattern directions: hand finished seams and hand sewn buttonholes.
Before we get into the silliness that are the shorts, let’s start with the top! I did a few modifications to it, and if you want the tldr version, here’s a video I put together on them:
Details about the details: first thing I decided was that I wanted a cross strap look. I just extended the strap length and figured out where I needed to move the buttons to get it to sit properly. This causes the front top to buckle a bit with movement so I just hid boning under the front flap & voila – issue fixed. In the video I mention boning over the bust seams, I ended up going in and making adjustments and taking that out.
This pattern is marked as 36″ bust, which I am, but it was way too roomy on me. I don’t know if this is because of ease in the pattern or because I’m a smaller cup size 36. After I did all that work to add the boning I realized I just needed to take it in, but since I’d already finished the entire top (hand stitched seam finishing & all), it was a bit of a pain to adjust – still, beyond worth it. Now the top fits me like a glove and – ironically – it wouldn’t have fit this well had I not gone about it this specific way, here’s why –
This is the toile, as I mentioned, so I didn’t go in and make any fit adjustments to the pattern before cutting it. I didn’t want to pre-measure the pattern pieces and try to make adjustments before knowing how this would fit and I didn’t want to take it in based on miscalculations and create more work for myself. This being a lined summer top as well, if it ended up too tight it’d be too hot to wear. So. I made it as the pattern is drafted hoping it’d fit and then it was too big – here’s how I fixed it:
The top part with the straps and the fold over flap goes together all in one seam, so I’d have had to take this all apart completely to evenly take off inches from the pattern pieces. Instead I pinned out the excess over the bust while wearing it and just crossed my fingers that it would all work out (cue the mini panic attack I had in the middle of these adjustments, thinking about how I do these things while being self taught). Because of the top seam I could only take the bottom seam apart and sew as far as my machine’s foot could reach. So I nipped out the same amount from the bust apex down to the hem and tapered it up to the top edge.
This worked out brilliantly for my shape because it actually kept the top edge a bit looser and not too tight overall, I can move easily in it and it breaths. Perfect for my broad shoulders / rib cage. It’s now fitted perfectly across my bust and lower ribs. I’d have never thought to do this tapered adjustment before this ‘needs must’ situation and certainly would have made it too tight.
Sometimes you have to go a long way in one direction to come back and figure it out in a way you’d never have thought to. It’s a mix of dumb luck, thinking “I can make this work,” and a heavy dash of self taught tenacity. Thankfully it panned out – this time… but yeah, never again diving right into a make in a final fabric without a proper mock up first haha.
In the end I took out 3″ from across the bust. I kept the seam allowances for this adjustment instead of cutting them down. Although I have other backups I’ve devised to solve fit issues before I’d need to go in and mess with the seams again (due to my size not being static), the option is still there.
The other addition to this top that is non-negotiable with all my garments these days is underarm shields. I modified the top of my sleeveless shields pattern – as there’s no armscye curve – and these snap in & out easily for popping in the wash. You can find my pattern for the sleeveless version (with the curved armscye) – and the regular dress shields (you get both versions in the one listing) – via my pattern in my shop. All the details about how they work, the tutorial video, and more can be found here.
Now for the shorts. In the photos of my set you’ll notice it’s close to the look of the shorts on the pattern in terms of where it hits on my leg – I had to take off 3.5″ from the hem to get them there, lost the cuff in the process (worth it) and I’d have taken off more from the hem if I could (couldn’t because of where the crotch sits). I still can take off another 1/2″ above the crotch in a future make and I just might. The pattern instructions are a bit more honest in showing how low the real hem hits, and it’s more of a camp counselor quasi-culottes look instead of that fun, short halo around your upper thigh. They also flared out way hard and the creases were difficult to keep that helped hold them in a halo. Exhibit A:
For reference, I’m tall, and I’m also 60% leg (we measured). I can’t imagine where these would hit on a shorter legged person, probably very much closer to the knee. Which… illustration! What?! In sum, if you plan to make this pattern I would figure out how hip width will affect length and then take them up above the crotch if you can and at the hem if you want them to look anything like the pattern image. Obv the artist took liberties, those gals have zero pelvis and legs longer than mine, but I feel like they could have gotten that illustration a little closer to the end result of the pattern. Oh well, my search continues for my dream 40s shorts. Flow-y and more skirt-like, less boxy than these.
This make was also my first pair of shorts, shorts pocket, belt, belt loops, hand stitched eyelets, legit boning, and a zipper. Quite a few people had me real nervous about putting in a zipper! But I want to say either this was an easy one or beginners luck because it went in without issue (even without having the proper sewing foot. It was all about strategically unzipping it).
Speaking of easy, that self fabric belt kit was also way easier than I thought it’d be. & though I love hand sewing button holes, I discovered I do not love hand sewing eyelets. Passsssss.
& finally! After my brain melted working through new skills and fit issues, I get the joy of wearing it. Please enjoy some of my best Betty Grable impersonations.
The set actually does give a good mid-drift look, I just had the belt too tight here. Whoops. So what did we learn? That pattern illustrations are make believe and 1948 was sweeeeeeet! Hope you’ve enjoyed seeing this come together – on to the next!
xx, Lauren
Some fine print: All images (save that of the buttons close up) & text here are held under my copyright and are not to be used, sampled, or otherwise shared for any reasons – commercial, personal, or otherwise – without my express written consent. Thank you. The pattern shown here is an original pattern and part of my personal collection, I don’t offer copies at this time and can’t point you in a direction for other originals or reproductions.
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